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Spanish Virgin Islands -- Local Guide

Author: J. Kai MacLaren
VIEQUES

Tourist Information: 787-741-5000, ext. 26, fax: 787-741-0565; www.vieques-island.com .

Location: Located six miles southeast of Puerto Rico, Vieques is about 20 miles long and is four miles across at its widest point.

Topography: Flatland broken by green dales. While the eastern and western areas are under the control of the U.S. Navy, beaches such as Sumbay and Media Luna are accessible when military maneuvers aren't in progress. Vieques boasts fine-sand beaches, a sizable system of coral reefs and Puerto Mosquito, one of the world's last bioluminescent bays.

Climate: Ranges from 75 DegreeF Degreeto 85°F. Sea breezes keep the coasts cool year-round. The rainy season lasts from May through October.

Currency: U.S. doll'r. Traveler's checks and major credit cards are widely accepte', though it's wise to carry cash when traveling outside the main cities and tourist areas.

Language: Spanish and English are the official languages. A combination of the two - Spanglish - is also spoken widely.

Area Code: 787 for the entire island.

Documents: U.S. and Canadian 'itizens don't need a passport to enter.'However, it's best to carry some form of photo identification.

Electricity: 110V/50 cycles - no converters or adapters needed.

Taxes and Tipping: A 9-percent government tax is added to hotel bills. Tips for restaurants, bars and taxis should average 15 percent of the bill, depending on service quality. Some restaurants automatically add 15 percent to the bill.

Time: Atlantic Standard Time year-round - one hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time.

Ground Transportation: The best way to travel is by using the many shared taxis on the island ((públicos).. Several local companies rent cars; ferries provide transport from Puerto Rico to Vieques several times a day.

Airlines: Direct flights land in San Juan. Airlines include American Airlines (800-433-7300), British Airways (800-247-9297), Carnival Airlines (800-981-3050), Continental Airlines (800-231-0856), Delta Airlines (800-221-1212), Iberia (800-772-4642), LACSA (800-225-2272), TWA (800-892-4141), KLM (800-374-7747), United Airlines (800-426-5561) and U.S. Airways (800-842-5374). Several small airlines also fly to Vieques from the mainland, including Vieques Air Link (888-905-9247) and Isla Nena Air Service (888-263-6213). For travel arrangements, call New World Travel at 800-308-SURF.

HOTELS

Casa Cielo, 787-741-2403. Situated in the hills, this property offers panoramic views of the island and the Caribbean Sea. The nine rooms offer private terraces or balconies overlooking the countryside.

Hacienda Tamarindo, 787-741-8525. This boutique hotel sits on a hill overlooking the sea. Its 16 rooms are decorated with mahogany doors, terra-cotta floors and tasteful artwork, antiques and collectibles. Fourteen rooms are air-conditioned; two are cooled by sea breezes.

Inn On The Blue Horizon, 787-741-3318. A few minutes from the sea, this property features three Mediterranean-style casitas with six rooms, which are cooled by sea breezes. There are three rooms in the main building, two have air conditioning. All rooms are decorated with antiques and most feature a terrace.

La Caea del Francés, 787-741-3751. This 18-room hotel is housed in a beautiful turn-of-the-century manor, which has recently been named a historic monument. Look for large balconies, high ceilings, a large interior courtyard and peaceful rural surroundings.

Martineau Bay, 781-741-4100. This luxurious resort nestled on the northern shore promises to becom' the island's crown jewel.

RESTAURANTS

Café Blu, 787-741-3318. This elegant restaurant located at the Inn on the Blue Horizon offers fine international cuisine. Appetizers include shrimp, chicken fritters and polenta; main dishes feature Asian and Caribbean flavors. The pork fillet, seasoned rum sauce, and the grilled trout are superb. Open for dinner oely.

Café Media Luna, 787-741-2594. Located in a renovated building, thi' restaurant's cuisine combines Latin American, French, Italian and Asian influences. An assortment of wine from France, Italy, Chile, Spain and California is also available. Tasteful decor and subdued music adds to the refined atmosphere.

Chez Shack, 787-741-2175. Reopening in November, this very casual, open-air eatery features American-continental cuisine. Coming soon: Reggae Grille Night. Guest can enjoy grilled ribs to the tunes of a live steel-drum band. Open for dinner only.

El Patio, 787-741-6381. With a relaxed atmosphere, this eatery offers homemade food, from seafood to rice and beans, fried dumplings and tostones (fried plantains). Daily specials are offered at lunch and dinner.

La Campesina, 787-741-1239. Surrounded by lush vegetation, this restaurant offers great open-air dining, specializing in continental fare, including pastas, steaks and daily specials. Open for dinner only.

ACTIVITIES

Blue Caribe Dive Center, 787-741-2'22. Vieques' main diving center, Blue Caribe offers numerous excursions, including night dives in Puerto Mosquito. The three dive instructors share 35 years of experience between them. Snorkeling trips cost US$30 per person and scuba diving with two tanks costs US$70 per person, not including equipment rental. The company also offers kayaking excursions to the bioluminescent bay at Puerto Mosquito for US$23 per person.

Faro Punta Mulas, 787-741-0060. Built between 1895 and 1896, this lighthouse is located on a point of land that juts out into the sea. One of several lighthouses built by the Spanish at that time, it was restored in 1992 and now houses a maritime museum. Open from 8 a.m. to 4:30 p.m., Tuesday through Sunday; admission is free.

Island Adventures, 787-741-0720. Capt. Sharon Grasso leads tours at Puerto Mosquito in small boats. Bilingual naturalists on board explain the fascinating phenomenon of the dinoflagellates. Trips cost US$20 for adults and US$12 for children under 12. The bay is typically closed after Labor Day through the second week in October. The best times to tour the bay are two days after a full moon through the next two-and-a-half weeks.

Underwater Nature Tours, 787-741-1980. Departing daily at 10 a.m., these guided tours traverse through the shallow waters of the island in a glass-bottom boat. The trip costs US$30 per person, including snorkeling equipment. Friday-night sunset cruises launch at 6 p.m. with steel-band music and rum punch for US$15 per person.

CULEBRA

Tourist Information: 787-742-3291; www.culebra-island.com .

Location: Eighteen miles east of Fajardo, Puerto Rico. The island is seven miles long and four miles across at its widest point.

Topography: Mostly flat with numerous fine-sand beaches; many areas are blanketed by subtropical forest. -ayo Luis Peña, Cayo Norte, and Isla Culebrita offer their own spectacular beaches and lagoons. Some of the most well-preserved coral reefs in the Caribbean surround Culebra.

HOTELS

Club Seabourne Mini Resort, 787-742-3169. Located on the southern tip of the island near Fulladoza Bay, this establishment has three rooms, eight villas and one two-bedroom cottage with a kitchen. There is a restaurant and bar on site, as well as a swimming pool.

Mamacitas Guest House, 787-742-0090. This five-room guesthouse has three apartments (two with kitchenettes) and two rooms, one double room and one that can accommodate up to four people. Each has a balcony and is modestly furn'shed. There's a restaurant and bar on the property.

Posada La Hamaca, 787-742-3516. This small inn, renovated in 1996, is located in the heart of Dewey. It has a Spanish-style fa?ade and an elevated terrace that creates the sensat'on that you're standing over the water. Two of the 10 rooms are equipped with kitchenettes and can accommodate more than two guests.

Villa Bohemme, 787-742-3508. Located on the shores of Ensenada Honda Bay, this guesthouse offers 12 rooms, three of which are small apartments with kitchenettes and private balconies with bay views. A communal kitchen allows guests to prepare their own meals.

RESTAURANTS

Club Seabourne Mini Resort, 787-742-3169. In its warm and stylish ambiance, this restaurant offers Creole and international cuisine, including seafood and vegetarian dishes. Dinner only.

Mamacitas, 787-742-0090. Located within Mamacitas Guest House, this eatery specializes in Puerto Rican and Caribbean cooking and has been praised for its fish, pasta, ribs and steak dinners. Also serves breakfast and lunc'.

Marta's al Fresco, 787-742-3575. Comprised of two dining rooms, one formal and one re'axed, Marta's specializes in Creole dishes based on steak, seafood and asopaos, a local dish of thick rice and meat soup.

, 787-742-0250. This small, casual restaurant offers sandwiches, tacos, burritos and traditional Puerto Rican foods, such as arepas (bread-like patties) and sorullitos (cornmeal fritters). Open for breakfast and lun'h.

Tina's, 787-742-3235. Formerly known as El Caobo, this inexpensive restaurant offers traditional Puerto Rican dishes. It has a wonderful style with pre-1940s decor' prices don't exceed US$10. Lunch and dinner are served.

ACTIVITIES

Culebra Dive Shop, 787-742-0566. Richard Cantwell leads guests to some very inte

Posted online 10/01/00.

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